An electric strike is the most common way to add access control to an existing aluminum storefront door without replacing the mechanical lock. The strike sits in the frame where the strike plate normally goes. When the system is locked, the strike lip holds the latch bolt in place. When access is granted, the strike releases and the latch can pass — the door opens.
The beauty of the setup is that the mechanical lock stays in place. If the power fails, the lock still works with a key. The electronic layer adds convenience and logging. The mechanical layer keeps the door secured.
How an Electric Strike Works
A standard strike plate is a fixed metal pocket bolted to the frame. The door’s latch bolt enters the pocket when the door closes, and the lip of the strike keeps the bolt from pulling back out. The door stays closed.
An electric strike replaces that fixed plate with a mechanism that has two states. In the locked state, the strike lip is rigid — the latch bolt can’t escape. In the unlocked state, the strike lip pivots or releases — the latch bolt can pull free and the door opens. The state is controlled by an electrical signal from the access control system.
Electric strikes come in two configurations: fail-secure and fail-safe. A fail-secure strike stays locked when power is removed — it requires power to unlock. This is used on doors that need to stay secure during a power outage, like server rooms and records rooms. A fail-safe strike unlocks when power is removed — it requires power to stay locked. This is used on egress doors, where free exit must be maintained at all times per life safety code.
Installing on Aluminum Storefront Frames
Aluminum storefront frames present specific challenges for electric strike installation. The frame extrusion has a specific profile — it’s not a standard wood or steel frame with a flat jamb. The strike has to mount inside the aluminum extrusion, which means the frame has to be prepped correctly: a cutout for the strike body, a recess for the faceplate, and a routing path for the wiring.
The strike has to be the correct profile for the frame. Not every electric strike fits every storefront extrusion. The two most common profiles are the 4-7/8 inch ANSI faceplate (used on most standard commercial frames) and the narrow stile profile used on aluminum storefront doors with thinner rails. Installing a standard strike on a narrow stile frame doesn’t work — the faceplate extends beyond the frame.
The wiring path matters. The cable from the strike to the access control controller has to get from the frame to the controller location. On a storefront door, that usually means routing through the frame extrusion, down through the threshold or floor, and to a controller box mounted nearby. The wiring has to be low-voltage — typically 12V or 24V DC — and it has to be protected from physical damage and from water intrusion at the threshold.
What Fails
Electric strikes fail in predictable ways:
Wire breakage. The most common failure. The cable that runs from the strike through the door frame to the controller chafes or breaks at a bend point, especially where the cable exits the frame and enters the floor. The fix is re-running the cable with proper strain relief and a flexible conduit at transition points.
Water intrusion. On exterior storefront doors, water gets into the frame at the threshold. If the strike isn’t rated for wet locations, the internal solenoid corrodes. The fix is using a strike with an appropriate environmental rating and sealing the wiring entry points.
Mechanical binding. If the door shifts or the frame settles, the latch bolt no longer aligns with the strike opening. The strike releases but the bolt can’t pass — the door won’t open. The fix isn’t adjusting the strike — it’s correcting the door alignment first, then verifying the strike position.
Wrong voltage. A 12V strike wired to a 24V power supply will fail quickly. A 24V strike wired to a 12V supply will buzz but not release. The voltage has to match the strike rating, and the power supply has to be sized for the current draw of all strikes on the circuit.
Pairing With the Right Lock
The electric strike works with the mechanical lock — it doesn’t replace it. On a storefront door, the lock is typically a cylindrical mortise lock or a rim cylinder with a mortise exit device. The latch bolt profile has to be compatible with the strike. A deadlatching bolt is preferred — it prevents the bolt from being shimmed (a credit card slipped between the door and frame to push the bolt back). A standard spring latch can be shimmed, which is a security weakness on any access-controlled door.
ADA Considerations
If the door is in an accessible path, the lock hardware has to comply with ADA requirements — lever handles, not round knobs, and an opening force within the 5 lbf limit. The electric strike doesn’t change the opening force — the door still has to be pushed or pulled open manually. If the door is too heavy to open, an automatic door operator may be needed in addition to the electric strike.
What Pro Locksmith Does
Pro Locksmith LLC installs electric strikes on commercial aluminum storefront doors throughout Broward County and Miami-Dade, including Fort Lauderdale, Hollywood, Pembroke Pines, Davie, Pompano Beach, Coral Springs, and Miami. We use listed electric strikes from approved manufacturers, and we pair them with existing or new mechanical locks to maintain security during power failures. The company is licensed and insured, with a certificate of insurance provided for commercial property managers. Flat-rate pricing is quoted up front. Employees, not subcontractors.
If you’re adding access control to storefront doors or repairing a strike that’s stopped working, call Pro Locksmith LLC at (954) 406-8266.
Sources
- ANSI/BHMA A156.31, Electric Strikes
- NFPA 80, Standard for Fire Doors and Other Opening Protectives (fire-rated strike requirements)
- ADA Standards for Accessible Design, Section 404 (door opening force and hardware)